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FAQs

All you need to know about shopping with YourGreen and growing our eco-friendly range of seeds and trees.
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Shopping seed & tree packs - YourGreen
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Will my order come all together?
Your Green

Tree and hedge packs will arrive separately to our other products even when you have purchased them on the same order. This is because our trees and seed products are grown in special areas best suited to growing each one.

How long can I wait to use my seed?
Your Green

There is no exact timeframe for how quickly seed loses its germination. However, we would suggest using your seed within six months of delivery for the best results.

Do you sell agricultural seed?
Your Green

We do indeed sell agricultural seed, from grass seed mixes to environmental mixtures. For a quote on any agricultural seed products, email hello@your-green.co.uk with your contact details and the details of your enquiry and we will get back to you as soon as we can with a quote.

How can I cancel my order?
Your Green

We’re sorry to hear you are thinking about cancelling your order. Please email us at service@your-green.co.uk with your order details, including your order number. We will do our best to cancel the order for you. However, if the seed has already been mixed or has left us, then unfortunately we are not able to cancel. We will always let you know either way.

Can I amend the delivery address?
Your Green

If you would like to amend or update your delivery address, we will try our very best to get this changed for you. As long as the products haven’t been collected by the courier, this should not be a problem. Please email us at service@your-green.co.uk with your order number and the new details.

How do I track my order?
Your Green

If you have purchased wildflower seed, amenity seed or equine grass seed then you will be provided with a tracking number to use on our courier’s website as soon as the delivery is processed.

Unfortunately, for the tree and hedge packs this is not possible. However, please email us at service@your-green.co.uk and we will do our best to get you an update on your delivery. 

Just a quick note, that the tree and hedge packs may arrive separately to our other products even when you have purchased them on the same order. This is because our trees and seed products are grown in special areas, best suited to growing each one, so we can produce quality products. 

Are you an environmentally-friendly & sustainable retailer?
Your Green

We certainly are! And we are committed to getting better and better.

In 2021, we will to offset all of our carbon footprint by planting trees and grass mixes in different areas across the UK. We also offer free wildflower seed mixes to selected schools, care homes and charities. This is so that we can share the benefits of these beautiful and important plants. 

All of our seed packaging is recyclable. We will be making further changes to our packaging supply by using all biodegradable packaging by 2025. 

The tree protection packs are also all recyclable and, again, we will be supplying biodegradable protection equipment by 2025.  

If you think of anything we can be doing in addition to the above or can help us improve our sustainability, please email us with your ideas at hello@your-green.co.uk.

Do the prices include VAT?
Your Green

Some of our products are VAT exempt and therefore we do not charge VAT for these products. 

The products which are VAT exempt are:

  • All amenity grass mixtures
  • All equine grass mixtures 

All tree and hedge packs and wildflower seed mixes do include 20% VAT and this will appear on your invoice.

Can I amend my order?
Your Green

Please email us at service@your-green.co.uk with your order number and details of what you would like to change. We will do our best to help and update your order. However, if the seed has already been mixed or has left us, then unfortunately we would not be able to make any amends. We will always let you know either way.

Where do you deliver to?
Your Green

We currently deliver to all of mainland UK. 

For UK offshore islands, please contact us at hello@your-green.co.uk and we will do our best to get our products to you as quickly as we can.

How much will the delivery charge be?
Your Green

For deliveries to mainland UK, there is a standard charge of £2.95 for all orders under £50.00.

If you live in the UK on an offshore island, please email hello@your-green.co.uk for a bespoke delivery charge. 

Which payment methods do you take?
Your Green

We want to make the whole YourGreen experience as easy as possible so we accept all of the main payment methods used in the UK.

I haven’t received my order
Your Green

We’re sorry to hear this! We want to get this problem sorted as soon as possible. Please email service@your-green.co.uk and we will back to you with an update on where your order is as soon as we can.

I haven’t had an order confirmation
Your Green

Order confirmations can take a little while to come through. Please check your junk mail or spam folder. If you would like to check that we have received your order, that’s no problem at all. Just email service@your-green.co.uk and we’ll get back to you as soon as possible.

How do I return or exchange?
Your Green

If you would like to return a product it must be unopened and in good condition. 

Unfortunately, we do not offer exchanges on any of our products. We do not offer returns or exchanges on wildflower turf due to the nature of the product.

When will my seed arrive?
Your Green

 For wildflower seed, amenity grass seed and equine grass seed, our standard delivery time is 3-5 working days (orders placed after 4pm count as an order from the following day). We do not use next day delivery as each mixture is mixed and packed with very special care as the fine seed has to be handled delicately to make sure you get the best mix possible. 

For tree and hedge packs, delivery is 5-7 working days. 

We will always communicate with you if there are any updates about your order which you need to know about – we believe honesty is the best policy when it comes to service.

Wildflower seed queries
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I’m not sure which wildflower mix to use, please help
Your Green

The seed mixes we have designed have been formulated to enhance the YourGreen experience.

For larger projects, we have the Meadow Maker – a 60% grass 40% wildflower mix or we have the Carbon Cure which has an increased grass content for those of you who are looking at ways to reduce/offset your carbon footprint.

There are also three very special mixtures which have been carefully designed to induce a specific mood.
We have a Tranquil Escape mix for relaxing, a Creative Calling mix for when you need some added inspiration and a Feelgood Factor for bringing those good vibes.

For all you bee and butterfly lovers, we have the Pollen Pact mix, which can be used in many different situations and, for the keen gardener, the Bed Maker to boost your flower beds and make your outdoor space come alive!

If it’s flower arranging or special gifts which you are looking for, look no further than the Florists Pick – a beautiful combination of flowers perfect for cutting and then using to make arrangements for your home or for someone special.

Do you sell wildflower turf?
Your Green

We do supply wildflower turf and we would love to help with your enquiry. Please email us at hello@your-green.co.uk with your contact and enquiry details.

How much wildflower seed do I need?
Your Green

If you are sowing a meadow, large area or flower bed, follow the below sowing rate instructions:

For a 100% wildflower mix sow at 2.5g/m2
For a 60:40 grass + wildflower mix sow at 3.5g/m2
For a 80:20 grass + wildflower mix sow at 5g/m2

For growing in containers such as pots, planters and vertical gardens sow a thin covering across the whole of the container.

What type of soil do I need to grow wildflowers?
Your Green

Wildflowers definitely do better in poorer soils. This is because fertile soils can encourage grasses and weeds to grow. These plants may end up smothering your wildflowers and this will stop them growing and flowering. Most soils will be fine but if you are worried about the ground being too fertile, you can remove a layer of topsoil.

Do I need to water my wildflowers?
Your Green

No matter where or how much you are growing, it’s important to water the ground after spring sowing and whilst the flowers are establishing in the first couple of months. Check the soil for moisture if you can but a general rule of thumb is to water twice a week during this period (water more often in warm spells). Try to use a gentle pressure for watering as the seed may be washed away!

For autumn sowing you may not need to water, unless it’s a particularly dry period. Just keep an eye on the soil moisture and the weather to double check.

If you are growing wildflowers in pots, planters and/or vertical gardens, these will need a good watering every day from spring through to when they die back in the autumn.

Why haven’t my wildflowers grown?
Your Green

Wildflowers are beautiful, natural, environmentally-friendly and can be used for so many things…but they can be a bit temperamental when it comes to getting them going!

If you haven’t seen your flowers bloom in the first growing season, it could be because of the type of seed you used. If your mix is full of perennials or biennials, they will not flower in the first year but will flower the following season.

If your wildflowers haven’t grown at all this may be due to the three following reasons. Firstly, the grasses and weeds may have smothered the establishing wildflowers and caused them not to grow. We definitely suggest giving it another go. The main thing to check is that all grasses and weeds are removed in the prep stage and also to remove all clippings when cutting. The second reason could be that the seed was put under major stress at the time of sowing – this might be too much traffic over the area or extreme weather such as frost or too much rainfall or drought. Thirdly, the seed may have been sown too deep and therefore was unable to germinate in the early phases of development.

The above are the most common reasons for why your wildflowers may not have grown or bloomed. If you would like us to rule out any issues with seed, please email hello@your-green.co.uk with your contact details, your order number and the issues you’ve had. We would love to help and try and get any problems sorted for you.

I don’t have much space, which wildflower seed mix should I grow?
Your Green

If you’re struggling for space and don’t have a garden, you can grow wildflowers in containers such as pots and planters. The best mixes to try are the Native Flora and Space Saver mixtures. Both will create a fantastic and vibrant selection of annual plants.

If you have a small garden, try a wildflower bed. Again, you could use the annual mixtures – Native Flora or Space Saver. Or why not try our annual and perennial mix – Bed Maker for beautiful results.

How do I look after wildflower pots, planters & vertical gardens?
Your Green

GROW

1. Water does wonders!

Keep the planter, pot or vertical garden moist throughout the summer months and water every day when it’s dry.

2. Helpful hints about cutting back

Cut once in spring (optional) and then again in the autumn. You can use scissors or shears to do this. Remove all the cuttings please! If growing a 100% annual mix (our Native Flora and Space Saver mixes) only cut once in the autumn and resow the mix each year.

How do I look after a wildflower bed?
Your Green

GROW

1. Water does wonders!

Keep the bed watered throughout the summer months and water every day when it’s dry.

2. Helpful hints about cutting back

Cut once in spring (optional) and then again in the autumn. You can use shears to do this or scissors if it’s a small area. Remove all the cuttings please! If growing a 100% annual mix (our Native Flora and Space Saver mixes) only cut once in the autumn and resow the mix each year.

3. Get to work

Removing weeds is always going to help keep your bed in shape! Hoe the area and pull weeds out by hand.

How do I look after a wildflower meadow?
Your Green

GROW

ANNUAL & PERENNIAL MEADOWS

Cutting in the first year will set you up for life

If you want your meadow to really pack a punch, cut every couple of months in the first year – up until autumn. Best to cut to about 5cm high. A helpful hint is to collect all the cuttings as this helps the wildflowers to thrive.

2. Weed control is still a priority

Removing weeds is always going to help keep your meadow in shape, but make sure you really keep an eye on this in the first year. You can pull weeds out by hand or, if necessary, you can carefully spray areas – ‘carefully’ is the optimum word here!

3. Cut only a couple of times after year one

After the first year, cut once in March or April to about 7 or 8cm high and then again in the autumn. Don’t forget to remove those cuttings!

4. Patchy areas? No problem

If you find some areas are a bit patchy, use our smaller pack sizes to overseed these problem areas.

ANNUAL MEADOWS

1. Weed control is still a priority

Removing weeds is always going to help keep your annual meadow in shape all summer, but make sure you really keep an eye on this. You can pull weeds out by hand or, if necessary, you can carefully spray areas – carefully is the optimum word here!

2. Cut back in the autumn – resow in the spring

Cut down your annual meadow in the autumn. If you would like your annual meadow to really establish, it’s best to buy the Native Flora Mix to sow every year and after a few years you should build up enough of a seed bank in the soil.

How do I sow wildflower seed for pots, planters and vertical gardens?
Your Green

PREP

Pick a pot with holes

You will need some drainage for the flower mix, so either pick a planter with holes or make holes if you fancy it!

1. Native Flora or Space Saver will do the trick

For the best results in these smaller spaces, use our native annual mix Native Flora or our native and horticultural mix – Space Saver.

2. Create your seedbed

It’s always best to add a layer of gravel to the planter for added drainage. If you are using a vertical garden, don’t worry about this. Use a bag of top soil or mix a little compost with garden soil to build your seedbed.

SOW

1. By now you have your YourGreen wildflower seed mix but you need to know how much to use…

For a 100% wildflower mix sow at 2.5g/m2
For a 60:40 grass + wildflower mix sow at 3.5g/m2
For a 80:20 grass + wildflower mix sow at 5g/m2

2. Sow your mix

Scatter the mix onto the soil evenly and cover over with a dusting of soil. Don’t bury the seed too deep otherwise it will struggle to get going! Water straight away.

How do I sow seed for a wildflower bed?
Your Green

PREP

1. Remove any weeds, grass or plants in the area

Tip one is the most important for making sure you get the most from your wildflower seed mix. I wish someone had really hammered home this point to me when I started! You can use a weedkiller to spray the area, but be careful not to harm other plants you want to keep around the area.

2. Rotavate/break up soil for fine seedbed

Once you have removed the weeds or grasses, it’s important to break up the soil using a fork.

3. Rake over and roll

Using a rake go over the ground and if possible and if there is space walk over the soil to make the seedbed firm.

 

SOW

1. By now you have your YourGreen wildflower seed mix but you need to know how much to use…

For a 100% wildflower mix sow at 2.5g/m2
When sowing a  60:40 grass + wildflower mix sow at 3.5g/m2
A 80:20 grass + wildflower mix should be sown at 5g/m2

 

2. Sow your mix

Most of the time it’s best just to spread by hand. You can also mix the seed with sand or soil to make spreading a bit better but don’t worry if not. To get an even coverage, we always suggest sowing half of the pack from left to right and half from top to bottom of the area.

 

3. Straight after sowing think – tread, traffic, tip one!

You don’t want the seed too deep so rake some soil over the seed but only a small amount (depth 0.5cm). If you can, walk over the area to get seed to soil contact. After sowing reduce traffic over the area as we want the plants to get the best start! And remember tip one? Yep, remove any nasty weeds which appear – best to do this by hand.

 

4. Water does wonders

Water straight after sowing to give the seed the best start.

Where are the wildflower seeds sourced from?
Your Green

Our wildflower seeds are all sourced in the UK in order to help with our sustainability pledge. Sourcing locally also helps to reduce our business’ carbon footprint.

Can I grow wildflowers in a shaded area?
Your Green

Yes! There are many different types of wildflowers which grow in shaded areas. Some of the most beautiful flowers thrive in these environments such as foxgloves and bluebells. If you have a heavily shaded area use our Shaded Flora mix for the best results.

Will my wildflowers come back every year?
Your Green

This very much depends on the mixtures you have grown. Annual plants will not return the following year as a rule of thumb. They tend to grow, bloom and perform their whole lifecycle all within a twelve month period. However, corn annuals often shed quite a lot of seed, so you may see new plants grow the following spring. 

Perennials are slightly different. They do almost the opposite of annuals as they will not flower in the first growing season but they will last and flower for many years after this – as long as the area has the relevant maintenance.

There are also some wildflowers known as biennials. These will flower in the second growing season and their total life cycle is two years. Like the annuals, they will shed seed so you may see these new plants grow and flower after the first two years.

How long does it take for wildflowers to grow?
Your Green

This varies depending on the wildflower varieties you sow. 

Annuals such as cornflowers, poppies and corn chamomile tend to establish quickly when the weather conditions are right, so they can flower anywhere between 10-16 weeks as soon as temperatures are right for growing. 

For perennials and biennials, they can take longer to establish – anywhere from three months to two years. When growing wildflowers, you are in the hands of nature so patience is key. It is well worth it when the plants flower and you have your very own wild haven.

When should I sow my wildflower seed?
Your Green

You can sow wildflowers from mid-March through to mid-October depending on the weather. Don’t sow your seed if it is still frosty or you are expecting a frost soon. It is also best to avoid sowing during drought periods in the summer. However, this is not too much of a problem if you water the seed and young plants well.

Can you sow wildflowers on a lawn?
Your Green

Although we would usually advise not sowing any areas where grass already exists (as it’s extremely competitive), you can follow the instructions below to sow wildflowers successfully in an existing lawn or grassed space.

Top tip: ‘It’s better to sow in grassed areas in the autumn”

PREP

1. The first step is to open up the grass so that there are clear bare patches of soil across the area.

This is where the wildflower seed can make contact with the ground. You can use a harrow for large areas or a lawn rake is fine for small areas. For areas with young grass, this will be a lot easier.

2. Rake over the grassed area quite hard 

This should mean that the grass is ripped out – make sure to remove any waste. 

3. Aim for a minimum of 50% bare soil.

This will give the wildflower seeds a good chance of making contact with ground. 

4. Choose a YourGreen wildflower mix to suit your needs.

Ideally a 100% wildflower mix such as Pollen Pact, Native Flora, Space Saver, Tranquil Escape, Creative Calling, Feelgood Factor or Florists Pick.

SOW

1. By now you have your YourGreen wildflower seed mix but you need to know how much to use…

For a 100% wildflower mix sow at 2.5g/m2
When using a  60:40 grass + wildflower mix sow at 3.5g/m2
A 80:20 grass + wildflower mix should be sown at 5g/m2

2. Sow your mix
Most of the time it’s best just to spread by hand. If you are looking at a much bigger project you can use a contractor/spreader. You can also mix the seed with sand or soil to make spreading a bit better but don’t worry if not.

3. Straight after sowing think; – tread, traffic.
You don’t want the seed too deep so rake some soil over the seed but only a small amount (depth 0.5cm). If you can, walk over or roll the area to get seed to soil contact. After sowing reduce traffic over the area as we want the plants to get the best start! Remove any nasty weeds which appear – best to do this by hand.

4. Water does wonders
If you can, keep the soil moist in the early stages – ideally watering a couple of times a week and more if the weather is nice (here’s hoping!).

Tree & Hedge pack queries
Your Green
How do I prune hedges?
Your Green

There are some general rules but if you’re looking for some more in-depth advice on how to prune the species you’ve planted, look no further!

For hawthorn, blackthorn, fruit trees & dogwood:

These are ideal trees for hedging but do need a little looking after in the first few years.

Year one: When you plant the young trees cut them to 30cm. In the first summer trim a couple of centimetres off the sides – nipping off the buds to encourage the plants to grow outwards. It’s important with these species to keep them thinner at the bottom so plenty of light can get to the bottom branches.
Year two: in Feb or March prune the hedge to half its height and lightly prune the sides to a taper to help let the light get to the bottom. Let the hedge grow throughout the second summer and then prune the top during the autumn.
Year three plus: Prune to desired shape to encourage the hedge to become thicker and bushier.

For hazel & field maple:

These species are bushy at the base so need slightly less attention.

Year one: When you plant the young trees cut them to 20cm. In the first summer trim a couple of centimetres off the sides – nipping off the buds to encourage the plants to grow outwards.
Year two: During the winter prune the hedge to half its height. Let the hedge grow throughout the second summer but keep a tapered shape.
Year three plus: Prune to desired shape to encourage the hedge to become thicker and bushier.

If you want flowers & berries:

If you want to have flowers and berries on your hedge, make sure to prune after the blossom or berries have finished.

How fast will the trees or hedges grow?
Your Green

For most hedges you should prune back one third of the growth in the spring until the hedge has grown to the height you would like it at. You can then prune throughout the summer as you wish. This should cause the plants to grow around a foot per year.

What time of year do I plant trees and hedges?
Your Green

Tree and hedge plants are best planted during the autumn and winter months so the general rule of thumb is from October through to March.

How do I look after my hedge pack once planted?
Your Green

GROW

1. Keep the area weed-free for first 2-3 years
Keeping the area around your newly planted hedge free of grass and weeds is really important to their development.
2. Water hedge plants well as they are establishing – every 2/3 days (in the evening)
Keeping the plants well watered is vital to establishment. If there is no rainfall for two or three days, water well in the evenings. Keep the soil from drying out so there is plenty of supply for all your hedge trees.
3. Prune as necessary depending on which species you have planted
Your Blackthorn should be pruned straight after planting and the first season’s new growth should be reduced by about half in autumn. For the other species in our hedge packs Field Maple, Dog Rose, Hazel and Beech) lightly prune after planting. The first season’s new growth should be reduced by about a third.

How do I look after my tree pack once planted?
Your Green

GROW

1. Keep the area (1m) weed-free for first 2-3 years
Keeping the area around your newly planted trees free of grass and weeds is really important to their development. You should aim to keep a 1m area around your tree nice and tidy for the first few years.
2. Only water in drought conditions
You shouldn’t need to water your trees as they will use their roots to hunt for water. However, if there is a very long period of dry weather, you can water the trees well to support their growth in this situation.
3. Try not to mow between trees very often
Don’t mow around the tree area regularly in the first few years as the grass will be overly competitive. Mow infrequently for best results!
4. Check trees and protection for damage
Pests and poor weather conditions can damage your trees and their protection (guards, spirals, tubes). Check on them regularly and make sure supporting canes and protections are secure. Reorder protection if necessary.
5. Remove guards when they start to split
After about 5 years the guards will start to split. At this point it is best to remove them and make sure to recycle!
6. Prune if you’d like to
This is more of a tip than an instruction. Pruning after the third year can encourage more growth. Use a pruning saw to cut the tree branch near the trunk but not below the branch collar. Best to do this in winter.

How do I plant the hedge pack?
Your Green

PREP

1. Choose your hedge thickness – single (3 plants/m) or double row (5 plants/m)
There are two options to choose from when it comes to how thick you would like your hedge. You can plant a single row of trees (3 plants/m) or use the double row staggered approach (5 plants/m) for a thicker effect.
2. Keep roots moist until planting
When tree bundles arrive, ideally plant straight away. Make sure you keep the roots moist until planting by placing in a bucket of water or regularly spraying them with water.
3. Remove any weeds, grass and plants in the area
If you have grass, please remove either by hand or using a turf remover. For weeds and other unwanted plants, you can either use a weedkiller or ideally remove using a hoe/by hand.
4. Dig a strip to for your hedge (40-80cm wide and a spade head/root length deep)
Once the area is cleared dig a trench-like strip where you would like your hedge to be planted. If you are planting a single row the trench can be about 40/50cm wide but double rows need to be at least 60cm wide ideally. Depth-wise, make sure the trench is at least as deep as the roots of your hedge plants.

PLANT

1. Now, layout your hedge plants where you want to plant them
Using either the plants themselves or a cane, layout your planting plan. For single rows, remember its roughly 3 plants/m (so about 40cm between each plant) in a straight row. For double rows, plant two rows of plants making sure there is 30cm (ish) between rows and 50cm (ish) between each plant in the row. You will end up with 5 plants/m in a W shape.
2. Plant each hedge tree securing with soil around the base
Plant the hedge trees in the trench and secure over with some soil so they are standing upright.
3. Check the area just above the roots is showing when filling the soil back into the strip
When filling the trench back in with soil, just check the roots aren’t showing and that they’re not planted too deep. It’s best to do this by checking that the collar (the place on the plant where it started to grow above the ground) is in line with the top of the soil.
4. Water hedge plants well
Water around the hedge plants so they get a good covering straight after planting.
5. Trim plants to desired height to tidy up
If you would like to neaten up your hedge plants, trim slightly to make all plants the same height.

How do I plant the tree pack?
Your Green

Top tip: “For 15 trees plus, when marking out where you want to plant your trees, use wavy tree lines – they look much more natural than in a single straight row!”

 

PREP

1. Keep roots moist until planting
When tree bundles arrive, ideally plant straight away. Make sure you keep the roots moist until planting by placing in a bucket of water or regularly spraying them with water.
2. Plan your planting area – leave 3m between trees
Mark out where you would like to plant your trees using a cane or something similar. Remember that ideally there should be about 3m between each tree (no less than 2m and up to 5m max).
3. Remove any weeds and plants in the area and cut grass short
If you have grass, please mow down as short as you can. You can also remove weeds and other unwanted plants, ideally by using a hoe/by hand.

 

PLANT

We recommend two different styles for planting trees; Pit or Slit. Pit planting usually gets slightly better results but slit planting is more efficient when planting large areas.

 

PIT 

Take top layer of turf out
Dig out top layer of turf where you would like to plant your tree (make sure the area is wider than the spread of the tree roots). Cut up the turf into small pieces.
2. Dig a hole a tad wider and deeper than the root of the tree
Dig a hole wider and deeper than the tree roots and place turf cuttings at the bottom.
3. Check the area just above the roots is showing when tree is placed in hole
Place the tree in the hole – making sure the roots are not above the ground but aren’t too deep. It’s best to do this by checking that the collar (the place on the tree where it started to grow above the ground) is in line with the top of the hole.
4. Keep tree straight and place soil back into the hole around the plant
Hold up the tree and keep it straight, whilst putting the soil back into the hole to keep the tree secure in place. Don’t compact the soil too much!
5. Push cane into soil close to the tree and add spirals/tube for protection
Stabilize the tree with a cane and add protection such as spirals and tubes to prevent trees being eaten by small and large mammals.

 

SLIT

1. Push spade into the ground and make an open slit
Using your spade, create a slit by pushing it into the ground and moving it forwards. Make sure the slit is about the depth of the tree roots.
2. Use your spade to pull turf back and place tree into the space
Keep the pressure on the spade to keep the turf or soil away from the slit and place the tree inside.
3. Check the area just above the roots is showing when tree is placed in hole
Make sure the roots are not above the ground but aren’t too deep. It’s best to do this by checking that the collar (the place on the tree where it started to grow above the ground) is in line with the top of the hole.
4. Remove the spade from the slit and turf/soil should cover base of tree to keep it upright
Once tree is planted, remove your spade and make sure the base of the tree is covered over by the turf/soil to keep it straight and upright.
5. Push cane into soil close to the tree and add spirals/tube for protection
Stabilize the tree with a cane and add protection such as spirals and tubes to prevent trees being eaten by small and large mammals.

I’m not sure which tree & hedge pack to choose, please help
Your Green

We have created our packs so that they can be picked based on your specific situation and needs. If you look at our tree & hedge range and cannot find what you are looking for, please drop us an email; hello@your-green.co.uk and we will be happy to help in any way we can.

Which tree protection pack do I need?
Your Green

This really depends on what you think may damage or even eat your young trees whilst they are growing. If you think that there may be some threat from larger mammals such as deer, sheep or hares then it’s definitely best to go with the Tree Protection Plus pack. For areas where small mammals are the only threat you can use the standard Tree Protection Pack. If in doubt, always go for the Tree Protection Plus pack – better to be safe than sorry when you aren’t too sure.

Where are the trees sourced from?
Your Green

All our plants are grown in the UK at one of the leading UK forest tree nurseries. The nursery is the only one in the UK to offer 100% home grown guarantee, making what we do as sustainable and environmentally-friendly as possible.

What equipment will I need to plant the trees and hedge packs?
Your Green

Planting bare root trees is pretty easy and can be a really fun task for your family and friends, your community or if you just fancy a bit of time to yourself in the great outdoors.

What you’ll need to plant your trees:

The basics: Spade, large bucket, a YourGreen tree protection pack, measuring tape
The extras: Gardening gloves, wellies or boots, hanging labels, mulch mats, canes

What you’ll need to plant your hedge:

The basics: Spade, large bucket, a YourGreen tree protection pack, measuring tape
The extras: Gardening gloves, wellies or boots, hanging labels, mulch mats, canes

Why is it better to plant young bare root trees?
Your Green

In truth, young trees are much, much cheaper than established trees. They are easier to manoeuvre and you can look after the plant from a young age, meaning you will feel much more satisfaction – as caring for the trees is all part of the process.

If you are considering buying containerised trees, we would suggest thinking about bare root instead. These will generally grow at a faster rate, especially in the early stages as the roots don’t need to transition as much. Also, bare root trees are planted over the winter months so the roots will grow during these weeks – giving them a head start on the spring-planted container plants.

How will the trees arrive and how do I store them?
Your Green

The trees will arrive in a recyclable cardboard box. When tree bundles arrive, ideally plant straight away. Make sure you keep the roots moist until planting by placing in a bucket of water or regularly spraying them with water. It’s also important to handle the plants as carefully as you can as this will help them feel less stressed. Yes, plants can get stressed too!

Horse & pony grass seed queries
Your Green
What grass species do you use and why?
Your Green

Selecting the right grass species and creating the perfect mix is key to getting the best results in terms of yield, quality, palatability, disease resistance and durability. This is why our equine mixes are carefully designed to the specific requirements for each mixture and different situations.

Below is a simple guide to the types of grasses we use:

  • Westerwolds: A very quick growing grass, which is best suited to cutting. It’s a short term, one year species producing high yields for silage or hay.
  • Italians: Another grass which produces extremely high yields and is quick to establish. Italian ryegrass tends to last for up to two years and is therefore a short-term option mainly suited to cutting.
  • Perennial ryegrass: An extremely popular species used in grass mixes, PRG is quick growing, responsive to fertiliser and performs in terms of both feed quality and yields.
  • Timothy: A bit slower to establish, Timothy is persistent and ideal for poorer soils or for use in harsher climates. It also grows well during dry summer months when some other species may struggle.
When should I sow my grass seed mix?
Your Green

Most grass sowing takes place between March and end of September. Don’t sow your seed if it is still frosty or if you are expecting a frost soon. It is also best to avoid sowing during drought periods in the summer.

In terms of specific temperatures, we would advise to sow when soil is moist and warm; 5°C minimum. Italians and Westerwolds grow at lower temperatures so can be drilled slightly earlier or later; 3°C minimum.

Why hasn’t the horse & pony grass seed grown?
Your Green

If your grass hasn’t grown at all it may be due to the following reasons. Firstly, weeds may have smothered the establishing grass and caused it not to grow. We definitely suggest giving it another go. The main thing to check is that weeds are removed in the prep stage. The second reason could be that the seed was put under major stress at the time of sowing – this might be too much traffic over the area or extreme weather such as frost or too much rainfall or drought. Thirdly, the seed may have been sown too deep and therefore was unable to germinate in the early phases of development.

The above are the most common reasons as to why your grass may not have grown. If you would like us to rule out any issues with seed, please email hello@your-green.co.uk with your contact details, your order number and the issues you’ve had. We would love to help and try and get any problems sorted for you.

How long will the grass seed take to establish?
Your Green

Depending on the weather conditions and the temperature of the soil, the grass will start to grow around two to three weeks after sowing. Full establishment can vary depending on the grass mix you have sown, but on average it will take 8- 10 weeks. You can check if the grass is ready to be grazed with an easy test – the ‘Pull Test’. Simply pull up a handful of grass and if the roots are not removed the grass is fine.

What’s the best way to manage the grass?
Your Green

GROW

1. Keep an eye on emerging weeds
Identify any emerging weeds during the first few weeks and ensure that they are managed early to avoid further issues
2. Keep horses and ponies off the ground for at least 8 weeks
You can check if the grass is ready to be grazed with an easy test – the ‘Pull Test’. Simply pull up a handful of grass and if the roots are not removed the grass is fine to be grazed.
3. Monitor grass growth and cut/graze when at optimum stage
Continue to measure and monitor your paddock making sure to use rotational grazing. This includes looking out for any damaged areas which will need patching up during the 5 years

How do I sow my grass seed mix?
Your Green

PREP
1. Reseed your paddock every 5 years for quality grazing or hay
Aim to reseed 10-15% of your grassland each year to keep productivity and quality high
2. Sample your soil over the winter
Soil samples at 10-25cm need to be taken to understand soil fertility and pH. Soil pH should be 5.8 – 6.5
3. Identify weed pressures
It’s important to identify the weed pressures in the previous paddock/grass area to understand what pressures that field faces
5. Cultivate and roll for top seedbed conditions
Work ground to a fine tilth for optimum seedbed prep. This will help your grass reseed to get off to the best possible start

SOW
1. Check conditions are right for sowing
Sow when soil is moist and warm; 5°C minimum. Italians and Westerwolds grow at lower temperatures so can be drilled slightly earlier or later; 3°C minimum.
2. Sow seed at the correct depth – 15mm
Drill seed quite shallow – into top 15mm. This will help with more successful germination
3. Roll over for optimum seed to soil contact
Once the seed has been drilled, roll to ensure that there is good soil- to-seed contact to help with establishment

How do I make haylage?
Your Green

The grass is cut in the same way as for hay but dried for less time. Usually, the drying time is 3 days but can be shortened if the weather is very dry, typically haylage should be 70 to 80 % dry matter. The grass should be baled and wrapped tightly to exclude the oxygen. Once baled the grass starts to ferment and pickle, increasing the acidity, ph should drop to around 5.0. At the end of the fermentation process, you should have a stable forage which keeps for at least a year as long as the bag/wrapping remains fully intact.

How do I make hay?
Your Green

We offer a short term and a long term haymaking option, which once established create a premium hard hay which horses prefer. Both options should be cut twice a year after sowing the previous autumn as most grass leys need to go through a winter to make the best hay.

Hay should be cut when dry preferably at the end of a sunny day when sugar levels are at their highest, then tedded after cutting to ensure better drying. In good sunny weather and with regular tedding the hay should be ready to bale in 4 to 5 days. For small bale hay moisture content should be below 22% and for large bale hay below 18%.

How do I overseed my horse paddock?
Your Green

PREP
1. Overseeding is a great option when your paddock/grassed area needs some TLC
Paddocks and other grassed areas can become damaged, especially with a lot of traffic and plenty of wet weather. In this instance overseeding is a great idea.
2. Graze or cut area very short and harrow if you can before sowing
You will need to create some space where the newly sown seed can make contact with the soil. It’s best to do this by grazing or cutting the area to a very low height. If possible, you may also want to harrow the existing area a few times over before sowing.

SOW
1. Check conditions are right for sowing
Sow when soil is moist and warm; 5°C minimum. Italians grow at lower temperatures so can be drilled slightly earlier or later; 3°C minimum.
2. Sow seed at the correct depth – 15mm
Drill seed quite shallow – into top 15mm. This will help with more successful germination
3. Roll over for optimum seed to soil contact
Once the seed has been drilled, roll to ensure that there is good soil- to-seed contact to help with establishment

GROW
1. Keep an eye on emerging weeds
Identify any emerging weeds during the first few weeks and ensure that they are managed early to avoid further issues
2. Graze or cut lightly after 2 weeks but then leave until 8 weeks post sowing
If overseeding, you can graze or cut lightly 2 or 3 weeks after sowing but the area must then be left to establish until at least 8 weeks post sowing.
2. Keep horses and ponies off the ground for at least 8 weeks
You can check if the grass is ready to be grazed with an easy test – the ‘Pull Test’. Simply pull up a handful of grass and if the roots are not removed the grass is fine to be grazed.
3. Monitor grass growth and cut/graze when at optimum stage
Continue to measure and monitor your paddock making sure to use rotational grazing. This includes looking out for any damaged areas which will need patching up during the 5 years

Should I overseed?
Your Green

We’ve all been there. Poor weather conditions and a lot of traffic has left the grass looking sparse and damaged. If you only reseeded within the last four years, it may be better and cheaper to overseed the area, rather than do a full reseed. We suggest doing this when there are only certain areas which are damaged such as gateways or low-lying patches.

How much grass seed do I need?
Your Green

All our equine grass seed mixtures are sold in acre packs so work out the area you would like to reseed in acres and then choose that number of packs.

If you are overseeding, we usually recommend a sowing rate of 10kg per acre.

Why should I reseed my paddock?
Your Green

Weeds can ingress into grass leys, particularly after poaching/wet conditions. This can reduce the feed quality whether you are grazing or cutting your grass mix for hay.

The top reasons to reseed are:

  • Higher yields
  • Improved quality (higher DM intakes)
  • Improved disease resistance
  • Reduces weed burden
  • Can help with soil compaction issues
  • Increases response to fertiliser – ensuring spend on fertiliser is not wasted!
Amenity grass seed queries
Your Green
Why hasn’t the amenity grass seed grown?
Your Green

If your grass hasn’t grown at all it may be due to the following reasons. Firstly, weeds may have smothered the establishing grass and caused them not to grow. We definitely suggest giving it another go. The main thing to check is that weeds are removed in the prep stage. The second reason could be that the seed was put under major stress at the time of sowing – this might be too much traffic over the area or extreme weather such as frost or too much rainfall or drought. Thirdly, the seed may have been sown too deep and therefore was unable to germinate in the early phases of development.

The above are the most common reasons for why your grass may not have grown. If you would like us to rule out any issues with seed, please email hello@your-green.co.uk with your contact details, your order number and the issues you’ve had. We would love to help and try and get any problems sorted for you.

Can you mix amenity grass seed to order?
Your Green

We can do special mixtures for certain orders. Please email us at hello@your-green.co.uk with your contact and enquiry details.

How do I overseed my lawn or grassed area?
Your Green

PREP
Mow lawn to around 2.5cm high
Break up the grass with a rake or scarifier
Spike the lawn/area with a fork to make slots for the seed – a depth of approx. 1.5cm is needed

SOW
Divide area into manageable sections
Sow at 30g/m2
Shake seed to mix
Sow half of pack from left to right and half from top to bottom of area
Rake over seed, roll or tread to get maximum contact with soil
Lightly water if it is dry

GROW
Keep area moist
Reduce traffic over area
Use a net to protect seeds from birds
Do not apply fertiliser until seeds are established
Remove weeds which appear
Cut new seed when grass is 5-8cm high
For following cuts lower blades to 2.5cm high
Don’t remove more than a third of growth in a cut
Apply lawn fertiliser during spring, summer, autumn
Continue to overseed patchy areas if/when necessary

Should I overseed my existing lawn or grassed area?
Your Green

Overseeding can be a great way to rejuvenate a grassed area which has been damaged or has a few bare patches without having to reseed the whole area. If you decide to overseed, the seed rate needs to be adjusted to 30g/m2 to get the best results.

Do you supply grass turf?
Your Green

We do supply grass turf and we would love to help with your enquiry. Please email us at hello@your-green.co.uk with your contact and enquiry details.

Why should I grow grass over using artificial options?
Your Green

Artificial turf can seem like an ideal option for low maintenance situations. However, the reality of using artificial turf is much more complex than you might think.

A fake lawn or grassed area has a real negative impact on the environment and wildlife. It removes habitats for lots of different creatures, which is very bad news for butterflies, bees and birds – all a huge part of our balanced eco-system. Removing a grassed lawn also adds to your carbon footprint. Fossil fuels are used to make the artificial grass which obviously adds to carbon emissions. Also grass captures carbon, therefore you would be removing a way to reduce the amount of carbon in the atmosphere. Last but by no means least, when the artificial grass is ripped up and replaced it will end up in a landfill site adding to our serious pollution problems!

For us, it’s a no brainer as to whether we should be sowing grass or using artificial options. It’s always greener on the real grass side!

How long will the amenity grass take to grow?
Your Green

If weather conditions are right, the amenity grass seed will start to come through about 10-14 days after sowing, with full establishment taking about 6-8 weeks. So not long at all!

What are the types of grass species used in your amenity mixes?
Your Green
  • Creeping perennial ryegrass: An extremely fine textured grass which repairs quickly and creates unparalleled turf density. A grass breeding gem.
  • Perennial ryegrass: This species is very quick to establish and highly competitive. It has good climate and disease tolerance and is a valuable addition to a lawn or recreational space mix.
  • Strong creeping red rescue: As the name suggests, this grass has a creeping growth habit which makes it durable and hardwearing.
  • Slender creeping red fescue: Another creeping grass species, Slender creeping red rescue has dark and glossy leaves so it is ideal as an amenity grass.
  • Wood meadow grass: This grass tends to grow in tufts so should be used as part of a mixture. It thrives in shade which is why it’s an important part of our Shaded Space amenity mix.
  • Smooth stalked meadow grass: This species is slower growing than some of the others but creates a carpet-like effect – making it perfect for lawn, tee and sports mixes.
  • Hard fescue: A flexible grass species with high tolerance, making it ideal for low maintenance areas.
  • Browntop bent: A very hardy species which holds its green well during drought conditions. Grows well in sandy and dry soils.
  • Chewings fescue: This fine leaved species remains green throughout the season. It tends to grow in tufts and is a perfect variety for lawns and recreational projects.
  • Dwarf perennial ryegrass: A specially bred grass, with a short growth habit and excellent tillering potential to create a dense turf.
I need a large quantity of amenity seed, can you help?
Your Green

Yes, we can offer competitive quotes for larger quantities and we would love to help. Please email us at hello@your-green.co.uk with your contact and enquiry details.

How often should I mow my lawn or grassed area?
Your Green

As a rule of green thumb (sorry not funny!), most people tend to mow their grassed area once a week during the growing season, so from spring through to autumn. However, mowing your lawn or grassed space too frequently can have a negative impact on the environment. Cutting too often can reduce the grass’ potential as a fabulous habitat for all different types of creatures. It can also add carbon back into the atmosphere as the stored carbon in the grass is released.

We know that a freshly-cut area can look tidy and neat but at YourGreen we would encourage you to rethink your mowing schedule and embrace a more wild-look for your space. Even reducing your cuts to once every two weeks can make a big difference! It’s all about finding the right balance for your grass between encouraging regrowth/density and doing as much as we can to reduce our impact on nature.

When you do mow, remember not to cut if it’s wet or frosty and try not to cut more than a third of the overall height.

When should I sow amenity grass seed?
Your Green

Most grass sowing takes place between March and the end of September. Don’t sow your seed if it is still frosty or if you are expecting a frost soon. It is also best to avoid sowing during drought periods in the summer.

How do I look after amenity grass seed?
Your Green

GROW

  • Keep area moist
  • Reduce traffic over area
  • Use a net to protect seeds from birds
  • Do not apply fertiliser until seeds are established
  • Remove weeds which appear
  • Cut new seed when grass is 5-8cm high
  • For following cuts lower blades to 2.5cm high
  • Don’t remove more than a third of growth in a cut
  • Apply lawn fertiliser during spring, summer, autumn
  • Continue to overseed patchy areas if/when necessary
How do I sow amenity grass seed?
Your Green

PREP
Remove debris and perennial weeds
Turnover soil to a depth of 15-25cm
Rake over soil
Roll or tread over to firm seedbed
Leave prepped area for up to two weeks and remove any establishing weeds
Rake in lawn seed fertiliser 3-5 days prior to sowing

SOW
Divide area into manageable sections
Sow at 50g/m2
Shake seed to mix
Sow half of pack from left to right and half from top to bottom of area
Rake over seed, roll or tread to get maximum contact with soil
Lightly water, especially if it’s dry

What is the sowing rate for lawn grass seed?
Your Green

If you are reseeding, we recommend sowing at 50g/m2.
For overseeding projects, reduce the sowing rate to 30g/m2 for best results.

Can I order less than 20kg of amenity grass seed?
Your Green

Unfortunately, at this time we are unable to provide amenity grass seed mixtures in quantities less than 20kg.

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